![]() ![]() So now heads are off getting resurfaced and new valves and seals. After talking to the parts house about warranty repair (yes they will cover it ) I removed the heads and yup bent all 32 valves. what was left of the belt was melted to the remains of the roller, the other idlers and the water pump all had multi colored rollers from getting to hot. As soon as i had the main cover off it was very apparent, the roller on the brand new tensioner self destructed in 50 miles !!! destroyed everything. Sunday morning instead of relaxing, I'm at the shop popping the covers off to see what went wrong. That night,I am going over in my head ,is there any way i forgot to tighten something ? I've installed over 100 of these so I doubt it but. I told them to have it towed in and i would see what had happened. 2 weeks later on a friday night I get a call, 50 miles down the road and her car looses power coasts to the side and now is cranking over "fast". Cars owner was out of town for a few weeks, so her husband picked up the car and brought it home. Parts that were sold to me were dayco ,(american made right ?) they looked good ,nothing on the box about being made in china. There's still evidence of some minor damage, but the nut goes through it no issues.Recently I installed a timing belt and component kit on a 2006 obw. I gave it a going over with a wire brush and ran an M8 die down it to clean the thread as much as possible. I knew the thread was covered in dirt which didn't help, turns out the thread was damaged too While undoing it, it got about half way and it became even more of a struggle. Find yourself an old spanner and cut it in half to do this job, it'll save you alot of time faffing around trying to access the locking nut. For some reason Nissan made it waay too long and a normal length spanner is too big. The only part I struggled with was the PAS tensioner bolt. Perhaps they just needed re-tensioning.who knows lol There's no cracks or any signs of wear amongst the belt ribs either. I know the tops of the belts don't make any contact with any other pulleys/tensioners but they still look as new Been using them for years and very rarely have any issues. Removing them was quite straight forward, I cover the steps required in a Youtube video (link at the end) I had some free time after a Cars & Coffee event last weekend (Bank Holiday) and made a start. I've been getting a sqeel from a drive belt now and again, but from what I could see they looked ok. Luckily the glass stayed up and the unit could be pulled through the bottom hole in the door panel.įitting is the reversal. The last step is to remove the 4x 10mm nuts holding the motor to the door panel Next was a bar/bracket which looks to be the adjustment, going by the lines either side of the 10mm nuts Starting off with the 2x 10mm nuts either end of the regulator that holds the glass With the door panel off (I cover this in the Youtube video) it's time to tackle the regulator But after seeing the replacment on the floor infront of me, it was only 6 nuts/bolts I was preparing to remove the glass and strip most of the door panel to change it (hence the dry day). With the window stuck fully up, this restricted access to see most of it. I was lucky enough to win a replacement regulator and motor on eBay but life got in the way and I could never find the time to do the swap (aswell as a day dry enough) It then stopped working all together which became a huge inconvenience. My driver side window has been operating slow for a little while, it was make this weird squeely noise too. ![]()
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